When a utility raises its rates, most households look at the bill first. A smarter second step is to ask how you can use less, because that is the whole purpose of drought pricing. It is a price signal meant to make every gallon count, and it works best when people change their habits without much effort.
Denver Water shows why that signal matters. In a Water Finance and Management story on Denver Water's 2027 rates, the utility serving 1.5 million people is raising water and drought rates for 2027 as it faces "historic drought and ongoing inflation." On Oct. 28, Denver's Board of Water Commissioners voted unanimously to approve the increase. You do not need to live in Denver to learn from that. Higher drought pricing usually encourages shorter showers, fewer laundry loads, and less outdoor watering, and each of those changes can affect the water heater in your basement.
Why Less Hot Water Can Mean More Sediment
A water heater does not clean its own tank. Hard water carries minerals, mostly calcium and magnesium, and when the water is heated those minerals come out of solution and settle as scale and sediment. Frequent hot water draws keep the water moving and carry some of that material out with it. When household use drops, the tank sits longer between draws, and the heavier particles have more time to collect on the bottom, right above the heating element or burner.
Over time that layer can slow heat transfer, so the unit runs longer to reach its set temperature. It can also make the tank noisy as water heats beneath the deposits, and it can shorten the working life of the tank. A water softener reduces the mineral load going into the heater, but it does not remove every mineral, so softened homes still build up some sediment. Watch for a few warning signs: hot water that takes longer to arrive, rumbling or popping sounds from the tank, or gritty water at a hot tap. Any of those is a reason to check the tank sooner rather than later.
A Simple Flush You Can Schedule
Start with your owner's manual, since some manufacturers name a flush interval and describe their drain valve design. Then work in this order. Let the water cool first, because hot water can scald. Turn off power to an electric unit, or set a gas unit to its off or pilot setting, following the label on the unit. Close the cold water supply valve. Attach a garden hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the tank, run the other end to a floor drain or outside, and open the drain valve.
Open a hot tap somewhere upstairs so air can enter the system and water can flow out of the tank. Let it drain until the water runs clear, which may take a while in a large tank. Close the drain valve, remove the hose, and reopen the cold supply to refill the tank. Keep the hot tap open until the air stops sputtering from it, then restore power or gas and check the unit at its next warm-up. If the drain valve is stuck or leaking, or the water stays cloudy after several rounds, call a licensed plumber rather than forcing the valve.
Put the Flush on Your Own Calendar
Utility rate schedules move on the utility's timeline, and your water heater moves on its own. Pair the flush with a date you already keep, such as when you change smoke alarm batteries or gather household paperwork at the start of the year. A short annual habit is far cheaper than replacing a tank early, and it gives you a calm moment to look at the rest of your water system too, including the softener's salt level and the condition of your filters.
The rate notice tells you what water costs. The tank tells you what that water has been leaving behind.